The hills around Salzburg are alive with the sound of music. It was, after all, the setting for the movie The Sound of Music and the real-life story of Maria von Trapp that it was based on. But Salzburg is first and foremost alive with the sound of the music of Mozart for the city is justly proud of its most famous son.
Mozart
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born on January 27, 1756 into the aristocratic world of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Mozart, the son of the violinist/composer who was in the service of the Archbishop of Salzburg, had a single theme to his life: music. Amadeus means ‘loved by God’ and it seemed that no matter whatever music he wrote, it was blessed by God. As a three-year-old child he could learn pieces in minutes and soon played both the violin and piano with ease. By the time he was five years old, he was writing sonatas.
Mozart’s birthplace, a house on Getreidegasse 9, is now a museum where the violin he used as a child is on display along with other items. A later Mozart residence, Tanzmeisterhaus or The Dancing Master’s House is near Trinity Church on the Markartplaz. It is also open to the public with an entrance fee.
There are many concerts in Salzburg where one can hear “a little night music”. Churches in Salzburg pay tribute to Mozart by using his music in their Masses, for which, of course, many pieces were originally composed. The best part of these “performances” is that they are free!
Some concerts include dinner such as does the one at St. Peter’s Stiftskeller, which claims to be Central Europe’s oldest restaurant. The restaurant has a Mozart concert in the evening with a menu that is made up of 18th century dishes, food that may have been served during Mozart’s time. This restaurant, built in AD 803, was documented during a visit by Charlemagne. It can be found beside St. Peter’s Church on one of Salzburg’s winding streets.
Mozart’s Mass in C-minor was first performed at St. Peter’s Church in 1789 and the Mozart family did actually eat at the restaurant at least on one occasion (but more than likely often). Nannerl, Mozart’s older sister, wrote in her diary, “Papa and Henry had lunch at St. Peter’s and made music.” Nannerl, whose real name was Anna Maria, was a talented musician in her own right and both she and her more famous brother, Wolfgang, were taken by their father to play at the courts of Europe. You can still see her grave behind St. Peter’s in the cemetery.
The Sound of Music
As for the other musical link to Salzburg, The Sound of Music, there is also plenty to see. Several tour companies will take you to the Mirabel Gardens, where the family danced and sang around the fountain and Nonnberg Abbey, where Maria von Trapp was a novice before leaving to marry the Baron. It is the oldest convent in the German-speaking part of Europe. The tour also goes to Leopoldskron Castle which was used as the Trapp family home in the film. Finally, you are taken to Mondsee Cathedral where the wedding scene was filmed, although the Baron and Maria were actually married at Nonnberg Abbey.
The Fortress
Another site that is a must for visitors to Salzburg is the Fortress Hohensalzburg. The massive fort was built on the 1077 site of the Prince-Archbishop’s first castle and can be seen from every part of the city as it towers over the Salzach River. Breath-taking views of the city lie below and the fortress is a treasure house of Imperial art.
The Town
The narrow streets of Salzburg are filled with unconscious charm, no doubt one reason the old, baroque part of the city has been chosen as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sight. There are perfect places to enjoy a melange (the Austrian version of a latte) and apfel strudel. Slosh down an Austrian beer with wiener schnitzel at one of the outdoor cafes. Get lost in the small winding streets shopping for china or dirndls (traditional Austrian dresses). Spend a peaceful moment in one of the lovely old churches. Or grab your credit card and shop at boutiques on the exclusive Getreidstrasse.
One thing is certain, your visit to Salzburg will be a memorable one and, no doubt, you will wish that someday you can return.
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